Notes from Ramallah-ish
The Bay Area is full of Palestinians. While the Yemeni and Lebanese populations are also up there, I tend to be surrounded by Palestinians as a result of my interests and work and the fact that they're so darn active in everything and have been for a long long time. Maybe also because of where I live, I don't know. So I have a lot of Palestinian friends and colleagues--which is great! I've learned a lot from them in so many ways and on so many levels be it politically, personally, or culturally.
One of the consequences of having so many Palestinians in my life is that it's likely that at least a few will go back to their homeland. And go back, they do. My half-joking motto is 'Palestinians--you fall in love with 'em and then they leave you for their first love.'
The first that left was Amjad, now happily married in Ramallah and expecting his first baby. Amjad was literally a part of my family. When he lived here, not a day went by that we didn't see each other usually over dinner since he figured out when I'd be cooking and call right then saying 'Ana Ja'an!' and of course I'd invite him over to have dinner with my brother and I since I was preparing it anyway and he was hungry. Then he'd knit pick about the Asian-ness of my cooking (hey, I'm a vegetarian--need I say more?) saying things like 'If you made this back home, no one would eat it' or what-not. But he still came back for the dinner... or maybe the company.
In his defence, he did make the world's best hummus though, hands down, and took me out to dinner plenty of times. On top of that, he amused me for hours with stories about what it's like to grow up in Palestine. I know, 'amused' seems the wrong word, but he would literally crack me up with his dramatic re-enactments! And he always had an Arabic saying to share with me and everyone else, right Amjad?
I trust my life with Amjad--that's what kind of person he is.
A couple of months ago, two other close Palestinian friends of mine left for home: Noura & Khalil. Seems like the names don't belong seperately and I hope they don't ever unless it's some accomplishment by one or the other. These two are a super dynamic couple with hearts of gold, sharp minds, spines of steal, and a warmness that would make anyone melt. Acceptance, tolerance, and understanding are just some of the parting gifts they left behind for me to work with. Not to forget having a ball no matter what's going on and laughing laughing laughing at the absurd while still calling a spade a spade. They live what they believe and don't back down when others don't agree. They're that solid. In a world of smoke and mirrors, that's a rarity. I spent my last birthday just roaming around the city in their car, stopping by at their friends' houses, chatting the day away with one or the other or someone else who loved them. It was my day to peak into what I call the 'Noura-Khalil world'. It was warm, safe, and happy. One of my best birthdays ever.
Noura will start a blog when they get settled and have easier access to internet venues. For now, I'm posting updates on their new life in Palestine (thanks to her for permission). Hopefully, Amjad will get a hint and start writing too! Noura, next time you meet, encourage him to do it. Yeah, he'll come up with some excuse--just keep at it.
(Drum roll) And now, presenting Noura:
Friday Sept. 23
Just thought I'd share (purge) a snipit of our time here with you. Up until now, mixed with a lot of fun and relaxation, thankfully the situation on the ground has remained relatively calm. Many (W.B.) Palestinians say they are just waiting to see what is going to happen to them next..now that Israel has more soldiers, and time on their hands.
LESSONS IN PATIENCE
Day from Hell.
So, today we were stuck in purgatory, somewhere in between Birzeit and the city of Ramallah. As a result of the "flying checkpoint" there were taxi's and cars lined up for miles, and we barely moved a foot every 10 minutes. All that our Western/American patience would allow us to wait in the wretched heat for absolutely no reason is about 25 minutes. Then instead of watching Khaleel prowl up and down the street trying to understand the non-sensical daily reality of life in Palestine we decided to turn around and head back. Although I could possibly have waited a bit longer in the scorching sun, it wouldn't have taken long for my patience to combust as well.
Instead of the 5 minutes that nature would allow normal human beings to get from Beitin to Ramallah, and again rejected from the "normal" miserable 40 minute re-route, we decided to go around and take the scenic 1 hour ride instead. Looking (difficultly) at the bright side, at least we have the American passports to allow us the privilege of passing through more checkpoints. So we drove rarely enjoying the wind blowing through our hair more until; we arrived at the Calandia checkpoint. At which point we only had to wait another forty five minutes to get back into Ramallah.
All the time, the American half of my brain was asking, myself (and of course the soldiers too; with no reason given) "Excuse Me Mr. Soldier, what the hell is going on here?? Why all the waiting and random check points?" My Palestinian brain was saying this is the first in the range of daily difficulties in life under occupation.
For now, it is just another lesson in never ending patience of life in Palestine. I swear, I just do not understand how Palestinians endure it.
Thanks for listening.
Noura